Ed’s Chowder House

Description
Restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow banks on the aquatic savvy of marquee chef Ed Brown (eighty one, Sea Grill) to distinguish this up-market fish shack. Brown, meanwhile, sticks mostly with the classics: Fried oysters in a traditional cornmeal crust are returned to their shells with a creamy corn-and-jalapeño relish; a lobster roll, enormous chunks of lobster slicked with preserved-lemon aioli in a buttered brioche bun, is on par with the best in the city. Desserts—including warm doughnuts—are solidly executed but, like much of the menu, pander to the clientele’s least adventurous impulses.