Description
The Upper West Side dining scene has come a long way since Compass opened in 2002. Sadly, the restaurant hasnt improved with it. Opening chef Neil Annis has returned with a new seafoodcentric menu that reminded us of cruise-ship fare: A striped bass fillet coated in a gummy black-olive-and-bread-crumb crust wasnt helped by the overpoweringly smoky bacon broth beneath it. Lobsterstuffed into bland ravioli or chopped up with far too much breading in a Thermidorgave their lives for no good reason. Desserts were the high point of the meal: a warm pistachio cake with grapefruit segments was as refined as the rest of the food was clunky.
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