Boqueria Soho

Description
Given that Boqueria is named for Barcelona’s centuries-old food market, you might expect the menu to lean toward the classics. Not quite. Chef Seamus Mullen’s bacalao (salt cod), a standard tapas ingredient, is served here as an airy and crisp beignet. The most successful sangria is an unorthodox beer-based version that mixes lager, pear puree, lemon juice and triple sec. The Flatiron location is small and the bar area packed; a better bet is the 16-seat communal table, where you can nibble shaved jamón under the glow of filament bulbs. Meanwhile, the Soho branch is a less manic scene, more than twice as big and nearly twice as inviting.There, diners can see into the open kitchen, where exceptional classics like fluffy salt-cod croquetas, and dates oozing cabrales cheese are realized. Caveat emptor: While the big flavors that made the first spot a sensation have successfully transitioned farther downtown, so too have the minuscule portions.