Amorina

Description
After a seemingly endless wait, Aliseo owner Albano Ballerini has finally opened his pizza place across the street. He’s offering some hearty dishes, like eggplant parmigiana, lasagna with meat sauce and spelt risotto (a special); however, this is a pizza joint at heart, and the best stuff here involves dough, toppings and a wicked-hot oven. Pizza chef Ruth Kaplan scores points for conceptual risks—a giallorosso pie is garnished with dried cherries and orange zest—but the execution is hit-and-miss: On a recent visit, the crust put up a valiant fight against our attempts to cut it. And why bother with a prosciutto-and-fig pie if we need a magnifying lens to find the figs? Nevertheless, everyone’s happy to have an alternative to the deafening noise and pushy hard sells at neighboring Franny’s.