Marea
Prices
Average main course: $35.
AmEx, MC, V.
Description
Chef Michael Whites shrine to the Italian coastline seems conflicted between its high and low ambitions. Lofty items include an unorthodox starter of cool lobster with creamy burrata; basic platters of raw oysters seem better suited for a fish shack. Seafood-focused pastas are the meals highlight: We loved the sedanini (like ridgeless rigatoni) in a smoky cod-chowder sauce with potatoes and speck. But dessertslike a chocolate-hazelnut Kit Katconfirm a split identity that a little editing could easily fix.
Hours
Mon–Thu noon–2:30pm, 5:30–10:30pm; Fri noon–2:30pm, 5–11:30pm; Sat 5–11:30pm.