Olana

Description
Chef Al Di Meglio (Osteria del Circo) pilots this boudoir-style restaurant named for the Hudson Valley home of artist Frederic Edwin Church. The pricey food—entrées max out at $38— is more peculiar than enticing. An amuse-bouche was a sort of solid cocktail featuring strawberry gelée and Malibu rum foam, and monkfish osso bucco struggled to stand up to the bacon, superbuttery parsnip puree and wilted endive beneath it. The serviceable if clumsy food, rowdy setting and overly attentive staff add up to a restaurant that has what it takes to be the hottest new spot upriver, but doesn’t make much of an impact in the city.