Grimaldi’s

Description
The tourist hordes haven’t ruined Grimaldi’s, whose pedigree–going back to Patsy Grimaldi’s first job at his uncle’s pizzeria in 1941– assures it guidebook coverage. The jukebox still honors Sinatra, the waitstaff is surly, and the salami-mozzarella-and-roasted pepper antipasto ($10) remains as disappointing as a handshake after a date. But oh, the pizza: a thin crust covered with a mozzarella-to-sauce ratio that achieves the Platonic ideal. Desserts, though, recall the line from The Godfather: leave the cannoli. It’s tourist-grade.