Salumeria Rosi

This tiny uptown Italian market-restaurant hybrid signals the comeback of one of the city’s most eccentric food personalities, chef Cesare Casella. The toque—who doubles as a front-of-house impresario—offers assaggi (small, sometimes minuscule, plates) like a rich lasagna al forno. His insalata pontormo is a fine, hot-cold medley of soft-scrambled eggs, pancetta and peppery greens. But the namesake artisanal meats are probably the best reason to visit (try the prosciutto and mortadella). Desserts like wine-poached pears don’t invite lingering, but the occasional complimentary shot of limoncello does.