PJ’s Steakhouse

Queens gets its own porterhousecentric meatery in this stately Forest Hills restaurant. Though service is a bit bumbling and the wines pricey, it’s worth visiting for the food: A starter of smoky bacon-wrapped scallops with a maple glaze was a worthy preamble to a densely marbled slab of porterhouse that had been aged on the premises for 21 days. Sides, such as crisp-skinned hash browns, also deliver, but the prime selling point is the ease of entry: Reservations are a breeze.