Crema

Julieta Ballesteros, of Mexicana Mama, gives upscale Mexican a whirl at this colorful Chelsea eatery. The menu is mercifully short, and you won’t see the words burrito or enchilada anywhere on it. Instead, you get dishes like tostados en call de hacha, two mini-corn tortillas topped with scallops, avocado, mango salsa and a spicy chipotle aioli. Ballesteros is adept at mixing sweet and savory: The superb Chilean sea bass is served on a starchy plantain puree with a pineapple escabeche. Sweet cocktails, some made with rum or beer instead of tequila, can function as alternatives to dessert.