Fior di latte gelato

Photograph: Stephanie Gussin

Cone to pick America’s favorite type of ice cream may be vanilla, but this summer we’ll be eating something even plainer. Fior di latte (literally “milk flower”) is a typical Italian flavor that showcases milk, cream, sugar and…that’s it. The simplicity translates extremely well in a version made at Bklyn Larder (228 Flatbush Ave between Bergen St and Sixth Ave, Park Slope, Brooklyn; 718-783-1250), Francine Stephens and Andrew Feinberg’s recent addition to Brooklyn’s growing collection of artisanal general stores. The duo behind Franny’s pizza gives this European staple a local interpretation by using grass-fed whole milk from Evans Farmhouse Creamery, organic sugar and a pinch of sea salt. The resulting flavor is so farmy and unadulterated, it’s like drinking straight from the milkmaid’s pail. And though the salt doesn’t quite make it savory, in the vein of Italian fresh cheeses like ricotta or mascarpone, this pint can swing both ways. For those of you who consider the $9 a bit outrageous, fior di latte gelato will make appearances throughout the summer at Franny’s, where you can order it by the scoop. It’s anything but vanilla.——Tejal Rao

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