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Lavender

Amy Thomas
Photograph: Priscilla De Castro

These vibrant purple buds might make you think of your granny’s potpourri, but in addition to its use in perfumes and medicine, lavender—part of the mint family—can be a salve to your taste buds. Though it’s native to the Mediterranean, the French have cooked with this elegant-tasting herb for centuries. It’s made its way onto many New York menus as well, in both savory and sweet dishes, and in cocktails, too. At the West Village Spanish eatery Alta, chef Harrison Mosher uses lavender-infused honey to balance the lemon zest and fennel in his tangy fried goat-cheese appetizer. Meanwhile, a signature dish at provençal Paradou is chef Kfir Ben-Ari’s rack of lamb served with lavender rice (also available as a side), made superaromatic with fresh buds from the Union Square Greenmarket. If you’re more likely to enjoy scented sweets, visit Amai Tea & Bake House, where owner Kelli Bernard grinds organic, fair-trade Egyptian flowers and French lavender into a fine mixture to infuse subtle lavender-chamomile cupcakes. Another desserty interpretation is at Il Laboratorio del Gelato (95 Orchard St between Broome and Delancey Sts, 212-343-9922). Owner Jon Snyder’s honey-lavender flavor is a creamy scoop with delicate floral notes and small flecks of the herb. And let’s not forget libations. Mixologist Jason Kosmas created the Provençal for Employees Only —a cocktail of lavender-infused Plymouth gin, Cointreau and vermouth seasoned with herbs de Provence—that packs a pretty punch.

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June 30, 2008
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