Jackson Heights

Punjab Music

Although Jackson Heights could be thought of as Mumbai in miniature, the diverse neighborhood isn’t just South Asian, as a short jaunt down taqueria-packed Roosevelt Avenue will soon reveal. Emerging from the sprawling Jackson Heights-Roosevelt Avenue subway station, head toward 37th Avenue where you’ll find beautiful South American goods, such as elegant teal and silver Peruvian pots or airy Guatemalan embroidered shirts, at Rudy Volcano (79-07 37th Avenue, 1-718 651 7100). Many items are commissioned by the owner. Take your finds across the street and settle in for some excellent grub at La Boina Roja (80-22 37th Avenue, 1-718 424 6711), named for its shell steak (it also translates to ‘the red beret’)—the steak and eggs (bistec a caballo) will only cost you a ten-spot.

Of course, a visit to the ’hood isn’t complete without a trip through Little India, where you’ll find gaggles of women in iridescent saris, men lounging on store stoops listening to South Asian pop music, and the drugging smells of the best Bangladeshi, Pakistani and Indian food in the city.

First, and most obviously, is the Jackson Diner (37-47 74th Street, between Roosevelt and 37th Avenues, 1-718 672 1232). Named for the greasy spoon that used to sit on the spot, this ‘diner’ has none of the pictures-of-food-on-the-menus ambience that the name might lead you to expect. Instead, it’s the best-known tandoor in the city; just remember to bring cash. Another cash-only spot, round-the-corner Ashoka’s (7414 37th Avenue, 1-718 898 5088), has its own devotees. It may not yet have the name recognition, but its $7.50 lunch buffet has started to carve out a very loyal following. Literally anything off either menu will make you a life-long customer, though Jackson Diner’s mustard greens have been known to move grown men to tears. If you can tear yourself away from 74th Street, check out relative newcomer Talk of the Town (37-21 72nd Street, 1-718 533 9131), which serves the rather hard-to-find Chinese food the way it’s prepared in India. The combined elegance of flavors must be tried to be believed; and here, you’re more likely to get a table than at the other two spots. Skip dessert and instead stop in Shaheen Sweets & Cuisine (7209 Broadway, 1-718 639 4791), and pick up a baggie of Indian nummies for the road.

You’ll need a bit of a stroll after all that chowing down. Amble down 74th Street, lined with 22k gold stores. Be warned: all those incredibly complex necklaces do not come cheap. This stretch of 74th Street is also sometimes called Sari Alley, however, and any one of the clothing shops offer affordable bargains. The Sahil Sari Palace (37-39 74th Avenue, 1-718 426 9526) has a number of permanent sale racks, which include simple sari-fabric shifts for around $50 and sparkly shoes for $10. If your heart is set on jewelry, hit Butala Emporium (37-46 74th Street, 1-718 899 5590) for a stack of flashy bangles for only $12. The sounds emanating from Punjab Music (37-11 74th Street, 1-718 478 2758) or Patel Brothers (37-27 74th Street, 1-718 898 3445) enhance the atmosphere. If you want to see some of those sweet sounds in action, there are always Bollywood films playing at the Eagle Theater (73-07 37th Road). Call 1-718 205 2800 for a schedule in English, or show up and try your luck.

Don’t depart when night falls, as Jackson Heights is home to many fabulous gay bars along Roosevelt Avenue. You’ll find trannie talent shows at Club Atlantis (76-19 Roosevelt Ave, 1-718 457 3939) or a chiller scene at Friends Tavern (78-11 Roosevelt Avenue, 1-718 397 7256).

Subway: F to Jackson Heights-Roosevelt Avenue.