Baltimore, MD

USS Constellation

Disappointingly, a visit to Baltimore (pronounced “BAWLmer”) won’t deposit you onto the set of a John Waters movie or The Wire. Yet, the one-time murder capital of America is not without its charms. Hop on Amtrak from New York Penn Station to Baltimore Penn Station.

STAY
Celie’s Waterfront Inn (1714 Thames St, 410-522-2323, celieswaterfront.com, from $149), one B&B that’s not all decked out in floral chintz, is located on the waterfront of Fells Point—just one of places where The Wire was filmed. (Walk down Thames Street to find the old mortuary that fronted as police HQ on the show.) Though less significant, it’s worth mentioning that Fells Point is also the birthplace of Baltimore, founded in 1729.

DRINK
Beer is cheap here and there are a million places to tie one on, especially around Fells Point. If local favorite National Bohemian doesn’t do anything for you, try one of Therewer’s Art’s (1106 N Charles St, 410-547-9310, belgianbeer.com) house beers. Catch live music at the Cat’s Eye Pub (1730 Thames St, 410-276-9866, catseyepub.com). And if it happens to be Saturday night, wander across the street to JR’s Bar (1229 Hull St, 410-244-6442) for a raucous karaoke night.

EAT
Everyone argues about the best pizza in New York, but in Baltimore the food at stake is crabs. Good luck, though—those things have got more seasoning than the fisherman who caught them, and most places that serve them are overpriced tourist traps. But if you really want to eat good crabs and you’re lucky enough to have a car (or feel like splurging on a cab), head to either Mr. Bill’s Terrace Inn (200 Eastern Blvd, 410-687-5994) in nearby Essex or to The SeaSide (224 N Crain Hwy; 410-760-2200, theseasiderestaurant.com) in Glen Burnie. As an alternative, dig into heaping plates of mussels at Bertha’s (734 S Broadway, 410-327-5795, berthas.com)—yeah, you’ve seen the bumper sticker. In Federal Hill, check out fresh seafood and produce at Cross Street Market (runs the entire length of Cross St between Light and Charles Sts). Hull Street Blues Café (1222 Hull St; 410-727-7476, hullstreetblues.com) started out as a saloon in 1889—forgive the name because it’s a surprisingly terrific restaurant. The best part about this place is the shuffleboard, so throw back some $2.50 beers, sprinkle wax dust on the old wooden board and let the games begin.

SEE
One of the best ways to explore Baltimore is via water taxi ($9 for an unlimited day pass; thewatertaxi.com). Catch it in Fells Point and get off at Harbor Place to check out the USS Constellation (301 E. Pratt St), a sloop built in 1854. Next stop should be the American Visionary Arts Museum (800 Key Hwy, 410-244-1900, avam.org), a quirky museum dedicated to self-taught artists. And if you plan your trip right, you can catch the infamous HonFest (June 14–15, honfest.net), a celebration of beehived, spandex-clad ladies.

SHOP
Mount Vernon is one of the hipper hoods; head there for vintage shops like Blu Vintage (823 N Charles St, 410-547-9335, bluvintage.com). Hampden is also loaded with shops; troll 36th Street to find indie fashions at Doubledutch Boutique (3616 Falls Rd, 410-554-0055, doubledutchboutique.com), score comics at Atomic Books (1100 W 36th St, 410-662-4444, atomicbooks.com) and nibble chocolates while you shoe-shop at Ma Petite Shoe (832 W 36th St, 410-235-3442, mapetiteshoe.com).

THE TAB
One night, two people

Train $473 (round-trip)
Hotel 180
Transportation 18
Meals 200
Total $871

Travel time 2 hrs 30 mins