Newport, RI

Summers in Newport, while beautiful in that clammy New England way, are forever doomed by association with the musical tragedy of Dylan going electric at its 1965 folk festival. It’s not the town’s fault, but there are still many sensitive people who have not recovered from that infamous July shock—or the sticker shock of summering in an affluent enclave. In the off-season, though, this city-by-the-sea—sans the swarms of white-collar, sailboat-loving tourists—is actually loaded with deals.

The historic and majestic Francis Malbone House (392 Thames St at Brewer St; 401-846-0392, malbone.com. $165–$260; winter rates as low as $119), named after an 18th-century Rhode Island congressman, presents the golden handcuffs of Frette robes, a gourmet breakfast and an afternoon tea. Even though you won’t want to leave, don’t forget that you could have sat on your ass back in Jersey, so pull yourself away from the fire and venture down lower Thames Street to check out all the winter sales going on in eclectic shops like the Soho-esque Cabbage Rose (493 Thames St at Waites Wharf, 401-846-7006). A ten-minute walk north will bring you to Oriental Arts Ltd. (103 Swinburne Row, 401-846-0655)­—located in the touristy but fun-to-browse Brick Market Place—where you can pick up marked-down sake sets and books on feng shui.

Appetite intact, head to the classically nautical, waterfront-aligned The Mooring (Sayer’s Wharf, 401-846-2260), where a three-course meal including award-winning New England clam chowder, sole Française and white-chocolate-and-cherry bread pudding is just $19 (Sundays through Wednesdays).

Walk off the dessert by heading to Washington Square to catch an artsy film or an opera on the big screen at the Jane Pickens Theater (49 Touro St at Spring St, 401-846-5252). Named after a Park Avenue singer-socialite who summered in Newport with the likes of Doris Duke, the stately Greek Revival building, a former church, dates back to 1834. Film buffs who are tired of wandering the streets in search of bargains will really appreciate the monthly Second Monday Cinema Series when the Newport International Film Festival (newportfilmfestival.com) screens films and documentaries before their national release.

It may not be the season for Newport’s renowned music festivals (curse you and your amps, Robert!), but you can still hear some blues—sometimes by greats like Paul Geremia—at Billy Goode’s Tavern (23 Marlborough St at Farewell St, 401-848-5013). Nearby landmarks include the Great Friends Meeting House (30 Marlborough St at Farewell St, 401-846-0813), Rhode Island’s oldest standing place of worship. If a Quaker party isn’t your idea of a kick-ass evening, though, head to the oldest operating taproom in America, The White Horse Tavern (26 Marlborough St at Farewell St, 401-849-3600). Be warned: The crooked floors are still intact, so watch where you’re walking if you’ve had a few ales too many, pilgrim.

Chances are that whoever you’ve taken on this romantic getaway will not hold with spending the weekend slumped over a slanted barstool. So for some cultural cred, take advantage of ample off-season parking to participate in Gallery Night (newportgalleries.org), when you can bounce around and hear lectures from local and international artists. (Bonus: All art purchased in Newport is tax-free! And all stolen art is totally free!—not that we condone that kind of thing.) The historic Redwood Library (50 Bellevue Ave at Redwood St, 401-847-0292) is displaying the photography and letters of Carl Van Vechten, including classic shots of Dizzy Gillespie and Josephine Baker, through May.

February also brings Newport’s award-winning Winter Festival (401-847-7666, newportevents.com/winterfest; Feb 15–24), where you can indulge in everything from pizza cook-offs to seal safaris and ice or sand sculpting. An $8 Winter fest button scores additional discounts at restaurants, theaters, stores and museums.

If you still have some weird kelp-and-barnacle yen to satisfy, grab some picnic fare from authentic Italian deli Portabella (136 Broadway at Ayrault St, 401-847-8200) and embark on the three-and-a-half-mile, rocky but breathtaking Cliff Walk (cliffwalk.com) starting at Easton’s Beach.

Those not interested in freezing to death can quickly pack the sake-ware and stolen art into the trunk of their car and brave the nearby Ocean Drive, hugging the sharp turns à la Grace Kelly in High Society. The road might be safer in the summer, sans a slick of ice, but at least you won’t face being passed by a slew of sports cars.

THE TAB
One night, two people

Car rental (with gas and tolls) $150
Hotel $112Meals $80

TOTAL $342

Take I-95N to Route 138E. Take exit 3 around Hope Valley, Rhode Island. Continue on Route 138 over Jamestown Bridge to Newport Bridge. Take first exit off Newport Bridge (Scenic Newport).

Travel time 3hrs 40 mins

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