Choose a getaway:

New Hampshire
Wide empty space and cozy inns make a perfect pair.
By Kristina Dechter
• View a Google Map of the destinations listed below.
“Live Free or Die” might be the coolest license plate in the nation, so a road trip with that bumper constantly in front of your face is a sweet reminder to let loose and enjoy the celebrated countryside you came to explore. New Hampshire! It warrants the exclamation point the license plate earnestly leaves out: The Lakes Region and the White Mountains, located in the central and north-central part of the state, respectively, are two swatches of low-key New England, scattered with small towns and a whole lot of gorgeous emptiness.
Once across the state line (about three and a half hours from the city), we took the very straight and billboardless I-93 toward Ashland to the Glynn House Inn (59 Highland St, 866-686-4362; from $149), a perfectly maintained Victorian-era bed and breakfast where almost every room comes with a fireplace, canopy bed and the softest towels ever. We went deluxe ($250) and stayed in the carriage house adjacent to the main residence, which felt akin to a much-loved aunt’s spacious home. The furniture and amenities are the perfect blend of antique (footstools next to the beds) and luxe (whirlpool tubs). The new owners, Pamela and Glenn Heidenreich, are eager to please—like letting you bring your hyper dog ($30 per pet, $250 refundable deposit required), or sitting in the kitchen deciphering area maps and determining which route around Lake Winnipesaukee is least confusing.
Deciding to start at the top, we headed to Center Sandwich, a town so freakishly charming and remote (no paved roads or cell phone service) that I couldn’t decide whether it was a genuine throwback, or something born out of Disney. Or both. An illustrated Chutes and Ladders–style map guides you around to places like the Patricia Ladd Carega Art Gallery (69 Maple St, 603-284-7728), a spacious barn that showcases sophisticated work, and The Sandwich Creamery (134 Hannah Rd, 603-284-6675), a seemingly abandoned shed where fresh ice cream and cheese are sold the old-fashioned, scout’s-honor way.

Once out of the enchanted forest of Sandwich, we headed south to Wolfeboro, the biggest town along Lake Winnipesaukee. The sweepingly exhilarating curves along the huge lake that bring you into town set us up for disappointment: Wolfeboro is pretty touristy, though if you need camera batteries or souvenirs, you’re all set. Hampshire Pewter (43 Mill St, 800-639-7704) stands out on the strip, and it’s worth dropping a bit of change on a Queens-quality monogrammable souvenir ($33 for a fireplace matchstick holder). Grab lunch in town, as the ubiquitous Common Man restaurant chain gets old by day three.
The Lake Region is like a choose-your-own-adventure destination, as there are hamlets for fishers (Meredith) and quilters (Center Harbor), and detailed maps and brochures to fill out your plans. Swooping around the bottom of the lake on Routes 28 and 11, head up to Weir Beach to check out the semiseedy but fun amusement arcades and the mansion-flecked outskirts of town. Make a nice memory by detouring up to the Willoughby Ridge Farm (Route 13, Holderness, 603-968-3639). A family of border collies and wild guinea hens lead you to Anita O’Mara, the farm manager. Although it’s mainly a boarding facility, horseback riding lessons are available ($50 for an hour).
Wanting to spend the night in Tamworth Village, we opted to access the White Mountains via Route 16, rather than the more trafficked I-93. Spend a night at The Tamworth Inn (15 Cleveland Hill Rd, Tamworth Village; 603-323-7721. From $120), another pristine and fireplace-inundated B&B with gourmet restaurant fare and a happening pub—particularly if you coincide your trip with the “Barnstormers” summer theater troupe (June 28 through August 25). As with most of the towns we visited, opportunities to hike, kayak, bike and antique abound.
Rather than waste time outlet-shopping in Conway, hit up the White Mountains for a whole day (or two). The Kancamagus Highway, or “The Kanc,” is a long stretch of high-altitude road that leads you along the White Mountain Trail. With scenic outlooks every 100 feet or so, it’s replete with hiking trails to covered bridges (there are many), waterfalls and big-time views. There are also campgrounds if you’re inclined to maybe run into a moose. North-heading Franconia Notch leads north to the grand highlight of Mount Washington; at 6,288 feet, it’s the tallest peak in the Northeast. The Cog Railway Steam Train (Base Rd, Mount Washington; 800-922-8825, thecog.com) takes you straight to the summit so you can say “Been there, done that,” before turning around for home.
THE TAB
2 nights, 2 people
BMW X5
nycexoticcarrentals.com
Car Rental $817
(with gas)
Hotels 400
+ Meals 220
TOTAL $1,437
Travel time 5hrs 30mins