The original
Housed in a generic silver bullet with just the sticky remnants of a label on the bottom, this particular shade has long been my vaccination against tired, pallid skin and puffy eyes. It pops—in a psychedelic fuchsia, only-look-at-my-lips, don’t-look-at-my-face sort of way. Plus, I swear it makes my teeth whiter. The dream concoction is pretty much tapped out, though, and I’ve literally been scraping it from the tube with a lip brush (which does extend the life of a tube of lipstick).
Giella
Tucked away in the back of Bendel’s, the pros here can create concoctions on the spot and add extras like yummy aromatherapy oils. For discontinued shades, they just need a small swatch, but bring a gloppy-enough sample. Their rendition was supermatte—they noted that the smear looked as if it had dried up on the paper. Packed with pigment and super long-lasting, it’s darker than the original, and requires a hydrating slick of lip gloss for smooth application. $54 for two tubes. 712 Fifth Ave at 56th St (212-904-7969, giella.com)
Three Custom Color
Though they can mix colors from scratch, you can search their directory of discontinued shades online, too, which means that if you inadvertently tossed the tube, you’re still in luck (Chanel “Absolute Red” anyone?). A bit deeper and more sophisticated than my standby, it has a creamy consistency and lasts—though it smells faintly like castor oil. $55 for two tubes. 54 W 22nd St between Fifth and Sixth Aves (888-262-7714, threecustom.com)
Prescriptives
With custom-blending counters at four major department stores in the city, the analysts at this famously pioneering company can usually whip out your match while you wait. Like the original blend, their variation boasts a major dose of hot pink—it’s definitely the closest in spirit to my old faithful—though it’s a little glossier and wears off quickly. $60 for two tubes. (prescriptives.com for locations)