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Restaurant review
Travertine
19 Kenmare St between Bowery and Elizabeth St (212-966-1810). Subway: B, D to Grand St; J, M, Z to Bowery. Tue–Thu 6pm–1am; Fri, Sat 6pm–2am. Average main course: $26.
What does it take to get noticed in this town? If you’re a novice restaurateur, networking your way into the spotlight is a great way to begin. Danae Cappelletto, a fashionable young Australian, scored a profile last year in The New York Observer, when her Nolita restaurant was still a dream.
Travertine finally opened this fall after a bureaucratic ordeal (the community board offered its grudging support, having opposed three earlier venues planned for the space). The place, like its owner, has lofty ambitions—and a yen for attention. Cappelletto, who has experience running nightclubs and restaurants in Sydney, has opened a neighborhood spot with a velvet-rope sensibility.
The polished travertine slabs from which the restaurant takes its name cover the walls inside and out—and are the dramatic foundation for the dark and opulent club-style decor. Although the space is small, design tricks create the illusion of vastness, with curtains in one corner wrapping the ceiling like a bedouin’s tent; an enormous black-crystal chandelier over the stairs to the basement; and leather banquettes so huge, you may need a booster seat to reach the table.
While Cappelletto, a charming host who works the door nightly, didn’t team up with a celebrity chef, she snagged what may be a more appropriate fit—a striver who shares her spotlight aspirations. Manuel Trevino, a soft-spoken contender from season four of Top Chef (he was axed early on), signed on as head toque after losing his post running the midtown Dos Caminos. A veteran of the Mario Batali machine, he’s devised an upmarket Mediterranean menu that’s grounded mostly in Italy. Capitalizing on his 15 minutes, he works the dining room like the star he aims to be.
While so many restaurants these days are scaling back on propriety, Travertine amps it up. A waiter in a quirky bow tie (more Alex P. Keaton than Jeeves) delivers an amuse-bouche (silky butternut squash soup) to begin and petits four (house-made truffles) to finish. Trevino has exacting aesthetics that are aligned with this brand of pretense; though the food’s pretty simple, his presentations are intricate. In one starter, two perfect triangles of pig’s-head terrine are precisely shingled beside hunks of grilled country bread and assertive condiments (pickled fennel, pickled cipollini, watermelon-rind mostarda) in precious bundles. Supremely tender calamari bellies, expertly seared on the plancha in another fine starter, are scored with such exacting crosshatching, there may well be a food stylist in the kitchen.
Service is attentive, if a bit overzealous. An up-selling waitress one night urged an excessive pasta midcourse. While fresh garganelli with shiitakes, brussels sprouts and an extra-rich brown-butter sauce is one of the menu’s high points, Trevino’s riff on linguine with clams is a disconnect from the rest of the food, with gritty cockles and chewy pancetta in a standard-issue tomato ragù.
Entrées are so generously portioned, you’ll regret sopping up that brown-butter sauce. Tender quails, marinated in balsamic and quickly grilled, are splayed on top of each other like an avian napoleon, with mascarpone-and-mushroom polenta underneath. Monkfish tail, roasted then sliced thick, is technically flawless, with delicious red cabbage braised with apples and guanciale. Pork loin, rubbed with porcini powder and cooked just the right shade of pink, is served with white beans and wisps of fried artichoke.
One night, as we tackled a pair of impressive desserts—steamed sweet-corn budino as light as soufflé, plum crostata with a fine flaky crust—a DJ took up residence near the dining room. The bar was packed, and it seemed as if the place might shift from restaurant to nightclub. But, instead of amping up the beats, he maintained the ambient soundtrack that had been the backdrop all night. Travertine may look like a nocturnal hot spot, but at prime dinner hour it’s (thankfully) a restaurant first.
Cheat sheet
Drink this: The one-page wine list features a bottle or two in every price point. The least pricey red on the list, a primitivo from Piana del Sole ($45), is a lush and rustic choice.
Eat this: Calamari bellies, pig’s-head terrine, garganelli, quail with polenta, monkfish with braised cabbage
Sit here: Avoid the uncomfortable banquettes and request a secluded corner spot under the canopy.
Conversation piece: The namesake building material featured at the restaurant is like a cross between marble and limestone. Popular among architects both modern and ancient, it was used for both the Colosseum in Rome and the Getty Center in L.A.
Time Out New York / Issue 738 : Nov 19–25, 2009
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Everytime i go i have a blast food really good ambience tres chic feels affluent good crowd. Always a few celebs bar scene does not interfear. With tables check it out
The pastas were delicious. The atmosphere was fun, including a live DJ. And the odd location was a plus. (Sure beats the crowded Meatpacking Disrict.) We all had a great time.
The place is just another bad restaurant trying to pose as a hipster place, but the problem is that it's in an awful location. Full of trash and mechanics shops. As the NY Times said, a place more associated with getting your oil changed! Last place I want to go for hip and modern. All 4 of us hated the food and thought the experience was overpriced.
I consider myself a foodie and we had a pretty bad experience. First, our rabbit''s ragu and calimari were both overcooked. Then the lamb came out lukewarm. You've got to be kidding me. Bad place, waste of money.
I wasn't impressed. Subpar restaurant in an AWFUL location. The food was below average and the prices are high. The surrounding area left me speechless. Awful. The service is slow, and impersonal.
It's TERRIBLE. Bad service. Mediocre, poorly presented, over-priced food. Don't waste your money.
AVOID. We ordered supposedly signature dishes, the fagottini and quail. The fagottini was overcooked and the quail was dry. Ugh.
Five stars for design,but the food is just a little too complicated and pasta prices are Really High in this small restaurant. ! I think the comment about Daniel writing the negative comment below , is absurd! Daniel Boulud never had to make up reviews and certainly, the list of emails below ,all "seem" made up in that each one takes on one specific area oand hence they feel like fake reviews. I think you guys are good, but bring down the prices as you are not a fine dining establishment
lol the naughty reviewer below must work for Daniel! There is no man at the door, and the place is definitely not tiny, you should go before you write stupid reviews. We live in the hood and we love you guys! booked my birthday for next week and send all our clients - cocktails are great, pasta is great, service is GREAT!
Weekend Brunches are great . . . . nice combination of atmosphere and top tier cuisine - tough balance. The music on Sunday was really old classic rock songs that just put us in a great mood (needed on a Sunday !) The decor rivals any top hotel in the city probably.
i cannot believe all these rave reviews. as much as the atmosphere is new and cool, the service(and we went twice ) was so poor, the atmosphere in this tiny place so loud that you cannot hear and the place is cold! it took one hour between courses to get the next course. we felt the man at the door was so nice that we returned to give it a second try .. again, poor service and the food should have been honest . if one wants gourmand -go to Daniel , if one wants cool, its not this spot.
It's the place you go when your with good friends and want to spend the whole night having good conversation over endless choices of fantastic food and beverages. Travertine is the total package!
Travertine has excellent appetizers and a great menu. Very friendly staff and a comfortable atmosphere.
What a treat ! From the awesome decor to the amazing staff a total delight. I was one of the "Jersey Girls" who enjoyed the appetizers and ambience from start to finish. Bravo! Thanks for such a great experience and lots of luck with your venture.
from entering to exiting Travertine was a delight. Savory food, creatively paired.... if you want to have real fun....have starters and a few desserts with the wines that will charm
The pasta! its all about the pasta! cool cocktail list, who came up with the names?
Loved the atmosphere and the bar staff, very friendly and fabulous menu!
you should definitely check this place out its pretty amazing. i actually found the couches comfy? but i'm taller than your average gal desserts apps and pasta's definitely the best. In fact i have never seen desserts quite like this before you should eat them first!
my husband and i walked by the day they started there brunches. It was an invite only thing but they welcomed us in and handed us a cocktail! we live in Brooklyn and have been back twice - love everything about it, see you soon guys!
Live locally and this place its by far the stand out in the neighborhood. Just a different league. The pasta here is insane! it'll change the way you think about pasta and be warned you will never be able to enjoy it anywhere else again - i had the one in the picture, the mushroom one and have also tried all the others (yes i've been at least 6 times since it opened)
Great spot for dates boys! but keep your eyes off the owner or you'll be in trouble she's HOT!!!!
You must try sit up in the curtained area its sooooo cool. Feel like you are in the Bedroom of a movie seen from Helen of Troy! Went with a group on a Friday night and every seat was taken (need to make reservations cause it looked like people that walked in were waiting a while) The garganelli pasta is stunning, definitely fit for royalty. The escarole salad is addictive. We loved it hope to get back soon
Killer restaurant! The guy in the bow tie is the best! This place has service down packed. Its the cheese plate that sealed the deal for me, never had anything like it in a restaurant - maybe "a voce" is comparable. nicely done by an aussie babe!
While seeing a show in NYC, my friends and I (8 of us from NJ) went to Travertine after the show. We just loved it. The atmosphere was great and everyone in the place were so very friendly. I think we tried all of the appetizers and just loved everything. The place is great, love the decor and the music was right on! Danae Cappelletto has a great place and wish her well. Will definitely go back next time I visit NYC.
cool spot