Raines Law Room

Unlike most drinking establishments, there is no bar to belly up to at Raines Law Room. Drinks are prepared in a half-hidden back room, possibly the most beautifully appointed prep kitchen in the New York cocktail world. It’s a chandelier-lit, marble-topped island surrounded by cabinets of rare liquors, beautiful glassware, and gleaming examples of every tool and gizmo a barkeep could wish for. That you can see this tableau only fleetingly as you pass it on your way to the bathroom is one of the frustrating aspects of Raines (the name, in true faux-speakeasy fashion, refers to an 1896 law designed to curb liquor consumption). We’re torn on the value of this setup. It reduces the noise level in the lounge—a louche, upholstered space dominated by a fireplace and clusters of plush sofas—but robs you of the opportunity to watch the barkeep at work. Yet we have no complaints about Raines’ cocktail program—overseen by the estimable Michael McIlroy of Milk & Honey. It’s an austere, disciplined study in pre-Prohibition classics like the Manhattan and Negroni, and variations thereof, and each drink’s diamond-sharp execution justifies the $13 price tag. The Gold Rush, a honey-and-lemon-laced bourbon drink (and a Milk & Honey mainstay), tastes like a delectable drinker’s cure for the common cold, while the Old Cuban (rum, champagne, mint and bitters) smacks of a mojito with something to celebrate. And the Japanese (a forgotten classic and recurring special), a velvety punch powered by brandy and orgeat (almond-and-rosewater syrup), is so strong it could serve itself. Another pro for the table-service setup: After a few of these mind-erasers, we couldn’t imagine balancing on a bar stool anyway.—TONY

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