Best Mexican

Cabrito
The winner of Best new Mexican at the Eat Out Awards 2009, this artfully scuffed roadhouse, done up with Mexican wall tiles and bare filament bulbs, traffics in big, offbeat flavors. Chef David Schuttenberg (Fatty Crab) favors authenticity over crowd-pleasing Tex-Mex. You may find South of the Border fare this good on an outer-borough street corner, but Cabrito is a far more comfortable place to enjoy it. 50 Carmine St between Bedford and Bleecker Sts (212-929-5050, cabritonyc.com) Average main course: $18.

Café el Portal
Some of chic Elizabeth Street’s best food comes from this teeny alcove run by Ignacio Carballido, whose hardworking mother rules the kitchen. Delights include a juicy chicken thigh and drumstick swimming in rich mole, and moist chunks of fish filling two soft corn tortillas. This is also one of the few places in town that serves fresh cucumber water, a traditional blend of cukes, sugar, water and lime juice. 174 Elizabeth St between Kenmare and Spring Sts (212-226-4642) Mon–Sat noon–midnight. Average main course: $10.

Itzocan Bistro
Amid Aztec geometric bas-reliefs, diners at the fourteen-seat Itzocan Café explore an ambitious fusion of Mexican and French cuisines. Try the sweet corn soufflé, imbued with an earthy huitlacoche, a traditional Mexican truffle, or the queso fundido, a rich fondue of molten Brie and Monterey Jack, chockfull of garlic-laden chorizo and poblano peppers. 1575 Lexington Ave at 101st St (212-423-0255, itzocanbistro.com) Average main course: $17. Cash only.

Mercadito
This slim, urban beach shack shrouded in bamboo thatch with a chef-owner inside the open kitchen serves some of the city’s most consistently satisfying Mexican food. The portions are designed to be small, with miniature tacos and tostados bursting with original flavors. 179 Ave B between 11th and 12th Sts (212-529-6493, mercaditony.com) Average main course: $13.50.

Mesa Coyoacan
Chef Ivan Garcia (Mercadito) explores his Mexico City roots at this eatery, named for the neighborhood where he grew up. The food echoes the multiregional snacks you might find on the capital city’s streets: A trio of tamales presents versions from Oaxaca (chicken and mole), Chapas (pork, fruit and nuts) and Veracruz (tilapia with guajillo salsa). Other preparations come straight from the chef’s family, including a secret-recipe ceviche. 372 Graham Ave between Conselyea St and Skillman Ave, Williamsburg, Brooklyn (718-782-8171, mesacoyoacan.com) Average price: $10.50.

Pampano
Richard Sandoval’s seafood-centric eatery combines the flavors of coastal Mexico with European technique, resulting in exquisite modern fare. Impeccably fresh tuna steak is complemented by a sharp cilantro-ginger pico de gallo. Definitely leave your sombrero at home. 209 E 49th St between Second and Third Aves (212-751-4545, modernmexican.com) Average main course: $28.

Sueños
Familiar dishes, prepared with a twist: That’s the signature of chef-owner Sue Torres. At her colorful underground restaurant, you’re likely to find specialties such as grilled vegetables and goat cheese enchiladas, avocado leaf crusted tuna, and a tequila-flamed shrimp stack. The bar offers dozens of tequilas and six types of margaritas at prices from $10 to $69. 311 W 17th St between Eighth and Ninth Aves (212-243-1333, suenosnyc.com) Average main course: $20.

Tacos Matamoros
You can’t go wrong with any of the tacos at this Sunset Park restaurant: The carnitas pork is vibrant and moist, while the grilled carne asada beef overflows in both quantity and flavor. Order them grande for the added bonus of a guacamole filling. 4508 Fifth Ave at 45th St, Sunset Park, Brooklyn (718-871-7627) Average price: $2.25 per taco.

Tehuitzingo Deli and Grocery
You won’t need Spanish skills to gobble down $2.50 carnitas (pork seasoned with garlic, thyme and oregano and cooked in lard) and garlicky, lime-marinated beef tacos at this tiny, fast-paced, Mexican bodega. If you’re feeling ritzy, the pricier tongue version—taco de la lengüeta—comes in at $2.75. 695 Tenth Ave between 47th and 48th Sts (212-397-5956) Average taco: $2.50. Cash only.

Tulcingo Del Valle Restaurant & Deli
The staffers here are mole artists, rewarding devotees with authentic, complex versions of the sauce, and other rich offerings from the southern Mexican state of Puebla. You can order take-out or sit down in the no-frills seating area next door with a group of friends, a few beers in brown bags and the $2.75 tacos. 665 Tenth Ave between 46th and 47th Sts (212-262-5510). Average main course: $6. Cash only.

Yola’s Café
This restaurant may be minuscule, but its food delivers whopping flavors. The fried-fish taco is a must-try, and the gargantuan burritos are sure to fill your belly. 524 Metropolitan Ave at Union St, Williamsburg, Brooklyn (718-486-0757)

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