Best of the rest

FROM THE SEA

Corn and crab chowder at Petite Crevette
One of chef Neil Ganic’s best works is also among his simplest. The buttery chowder of sweet corn and fresh, meaty crab makes a luscious meal. With a hunk of bread, who needs an entrée?
144 Union St at Hicks St, Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn (718-855-2632). $8. ¢

Herring salad at Cafe Katja
A one-dish PR campaign for herring, this is comfort food at its best. Tangy, creamy and wholly satisfying, it transports an undeservedly maligned fish from the old world to a brave new one.
79 Orchard St between Broome and Grand Sts (212-219-9545). $8. ¢

Whitefish-salmon gefilte fish at Russ & Daughters
Long considered the redheaded stepchild of the Passover seder, gefilte fish gets its groove back courtesy of Russ’s variation. The fat, tender little logs are to the jarred stuff what the Ritz is to a Motel 6, and, in fittingly miraculous fashion, they will make you wish it were Passover all year long.
179 E Houston St between Allen and Orchard Sts (212-475-4880). $3.49 each; available Passover, the High Holidays and (special for TONY) Thu 11–Wed 17. ¢

Octopus mosaic at Felidia
Lidia Bastianich takes a surprisingly conceptual approach to the cephalopod. Octopus is pressed into a gelatinous terrine, then sliced thin. Its cross section is a visual masterpiece of creamy ivory flesh rimmed by a pinkish edge, layered with just-firm rounds of potato, mild burrata cheese, dots of chive oil and a few crisp curls of charred tentacle.
243 E 58th St between Second and Third Aves (212-758-1479). $18.

Seafood sausage at Chanterelle
Sausage fiends may raise an eyebrow at this porkless link, but they shouldn’t. This classic combines chopped shrimp, lobster, scallops and sea bass in a traditional casing. A hint of brandy lends a slight oaky flavor, and beurre blanc complements it like mustard to a bratwurst.
2 Harrison St at Hudson St (212-966-6960). Served as part of a $98 prix fixe; à la carte at lunch $16.50.

Sturgeon salad at Ouest
A generous mound of thinly sliced, silky, house-cured sturgeon is piled over a runny poached egg, which in turn rests on an aioli-slathered crouton. Add to that a garland of frisée with a creamy mustard dressing and an ultragenerous sprinkling of hunky lardons, and stifling moans while eating suddenly becomes impossible.
2315 Broadway at 84th St (212-580-8700). $16.

Rouget at Allegretti
Alain Allegretti’s postcard-perfect stand-in for the French Riviera features slivered baby zucchini, a tapenade smear and four crisp-skinned rouget fillets sauced tableside in a saffron-infused broth.
46 W 22nd St between Fifth and Sixth Aves (212-206-0555). $34.

SANDWICHES»

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PIZZA, BURGERS AND FRIES | CARBS (AND THEIR FRIENDS) | INNARDS | FINALES | STREET EATS | PROTEIN! | FROM THE SEA | SANDWICHES | THIRST QUENCHERS | BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH | THE DAIRY SECTION

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