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    • Restaurants & Bars

      Day drippers

      As Starbucks loses ground, small-scale coffeeshops soldier on. Find the grassroots mug that’s right for you.
      By Elizabeth Oakes

      When the green mermaid began its hostile takeover of NYC’s caffeine scene, independent-coffeeshop owners were quakin’—and not from espresso overload. But Gotham’s small cafés are tenacious and quirky, thriving in the face of what even Starbucks’ chairman has described as “sterile, cookie-cutter” outposts. Now that hundreds of ’Bucks are closing worldwide—including seven locally—we thought you might want a little help finding the indie shop that best suits your Frappuccino-deprived needs (and trust us—nobody needs a Frappuccino).

      Sniffers and swirlers

      Illustrations by Jesse Philips

      New Yorkers used to 50¢ bodega sludge might be surprised to learn that there are people for whom coffee is more like fine wine than a wake-up call. Ask any barista at Ninth Street Espresso (700 E 9th St between Aves C and D, 212-358-9225. Chelsea Market, 75 Ninth Ave between 15th and 16th Sts; 212-228-2930) for a shot of vanilla in your latte and you’ll get a polite but firm no. The seven-item menu doesn’t allow for that Venti quadruple-shot flavored latte, but no matter—a triple ristretto of the Stumptown-roasted coffee on offer here shines without any embellishment.

      Husband-and-wife-owned Café Grumpy (193 Meserole Ave at Diamond St, Greenpoint, Brooklyn; 718-349-7623. 224 W 20th St between Seventh and Eighth Aves, 212-255-5511) might have a slightly more extensive menu, but the baristas’ utter dedication to the almighty bean is no less intense. Two French-press-of-the-future Clover coffee machines at Grumpy’s Chelsea location hum nonstop, brewing fresh individual cups off the ever-changing bean menu. The baristas will talk up a storm about the coffees if you let ’em (the recently featured Nicaraguan Cup of Excellence from Chicago’s Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea, for instance, boasts bright floral and fresh-fruit undertones).

      Meanwhile, the Leftist espresso blend that oozes into the ceramic cups at Gimme! Coffee (228 Mott St between Prince and Spring Sts, 212-226-4011. 495 Lorimer St between Grand and Powers Sts, Williamsburg, Brooklyn; 718-388-7771) is the perfect foundation for the dollop of milk that creates its brilliant macchiato. Of course we’re talking about a real macchiato, espresso “marked” with frothy steamed milk—not like that caramel abomination Starbucks vets are used to.

      Read between the grinds

      If you’re the type that thinks coffee is better paired with a good book than with tasting notes, the window seats at family-owned chainlet Joe (various locations, joetheartofcoffee.com,) are prime real estate for parking with the latest David Sedaris, a killer vegan cookie and a potent Americano.

      Speaking of parking, the old-school-style coffeehouse Mudspot (307 E 9th St between First and Second Aves, 212-228-9074), the stationary outpost of mobile coffee slingers Mud Truck, is an E-Vill standard; its Mud Hippie Blend harks back to when we liked our coffeeshops dingy and buzzing with acoustic guitars. For Park Slopers, it doesn’t get any better than the funky, friendly, MacBook-loving vibe at women-owned microroastery-café Gorilla Coffee (97 Fifth Ave at Park Pl, Park Slope, Brooklyn; 718-230-3243), where the rich, superdark coffee makes a fine accompaniment for that book proposal you’ve been procrastinating on for months. Score a window seat and get crackin’, buster.

      Brew and chew

      Hoping to accompany that mug with a nosh that isn’t prepackaged and soggy? Check out standing-room-only spot Abraço (86 E 7th St at First Ave, 212-388-9731) for proof that size doesn’t matter—in more ways than one. In addition to homey bites (e.g., two poached eggs with fried bread), the shop’s cortado (a powerful mini latte) is a quick jolt of creamy heaven.

      Meanwhile, in the bowels of what would otherwise be mermaid country, the Financial District has an independent haven in Blue Spoon Coffee Company (76 Chambers St between Broadway and Church St, 212-619-7230). Grab a light lunch (like a delish soup du jour or a tasty toasted goat cheese, roasted pepper and onion panino) and wash it down with a smooth café au lait: Intelligentsia-brewed drip java with freshly steamed milk.

      If you’re in the mood for something cool, think Think Coffee (248 Mercer St between 3rd and 4th Sts, 212-228-6226. 1 Bleecker St at Bowery, 212-533-3366); vegan soba salad with watercress and ginger pops when munched alongside a cup of the shop’s unbeatable cold-brewed iced coffee—just try to get that at any corporate chain.


      Time Out New York / Issue 674 : Aug 28–Sep 3, 2008
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      Comments
      1. Posted by Time Out on Tue, Aug 26, 08, at 12:07pm

        Thanks for the heads up on the Joe link! It's now been corrected.

        Flag as inappropriate
      2. Posted by Joe fan on Tue, Aug 26, 08, at 8:23am

        Whoops! Haven't had my first cup of coffee yet. Make that www.joetheartofcoffee.com

        Flag as inappropriate
      3. Posted by Joe fan on Tue, Aug 26, 08, at 8:20am

        Link to Joe website is incorrect. Should read www.theartofcoffee.com

        Flag as inappropriate

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