Guac party

Photographs: Beth Levendis

TOSTADAS
Though this mobile grill advertises onion rings and ribs, a closer look reveals Coney Island Tacos (Stillwell Ave between the Boardwalk and Bowery St, no phone). The trailer dispenses the plump namesakes, but tostadas ($3) are the real bargain. A flash-fried corn tortilla is heaped with black beans, tender pork, chicken or beef, avocado and lettuce, then showered with salty cotija cheese.

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TACOS
Steps from the freak show sits Tacos El Sabroson (W 12th St between Bowery St and Surf Ave, no phone), a bustling taco stall whose grills are sizzling with chorizo, carne asada and crispy, droolworthy carnitas. Your preferred meats (or nonmeats, including avocado and black beans) come piled into warm tortillas ($3), served ready for zippy salsa verde or gratis guac.

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QUESADILLAS
Near the Skee-Ball arcade, Plaza Mexico Doña Zita (Bowery St at Henderson Walk, no phone) makes the finest quesadilla this side of Sunset Park. A griddle-crisped corn pancake gets overloaded with mushrooms, spicy chicken (veggies can replace the meat) and queso fresco. It’s folded into a half-moon and anointed with tomatoes, lettuce and, if you choose, garden-fresh pico de gallo.

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TORTAS
While Grill House (Boardwalk at Stillwell Ave, no phone) hawks fried shrimp and ice cream, its Mexican counter (look to the far left) cooks jaw-stretching tortas ($7) to order. The sandwiches balloon with black beans, tomatoes, lettuce, queso fresco and a mess of meat (chorizo is tops). Cleaved in half, they’re perfect for sharing.

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BAKED GOODS
Mexican flags and piñatas decorate Herradura Grocery Deli (1627 Mermaid Ave at 17th St, 718-996-8193), an unassuming bodega with a delectable bakery. The sweet, crumbly pan dulce are sold by the bag, but for more variety, snag a tray and tongs and help yourself to cherry-stuffed pastries and crunchy, sugar-dusted batons (75¢–$1 apiece).

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MEXICAN POPSICLES
Find the icy antidote to summer at J+A Grocery Deli (1530 Mermaid Ave at 15th St, 347-673-8062), a bodega stockpiled with Paleteria La Michocana Popsicles (from North Carolina, not NYC). The flavors range from fresh-fruit like mango, maguey or watermelon, to richer bars stocked with strawberries, pistachios or coconut. Can’t decide? Try two. At $1.25 apiece, you can afford it.

Time Out New York / Issue 668 : Jul 17–23, 2008

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