Monkfish

Monkfish schnitzel from Klee Brasserie

Photograph: Erkan Said

Chefs are increasingly featuring every edible part of this ugly bottom-feeder, often referred to as “poor man’s lobster,” which is caught in the deepest waters off the Atlantic Coast. About half the cost of the luxury crustacean (whose price keeps going up), monkfish is an affordable, versatile and not overfished substitute. Its firm flesh carries delicate flavor, thanks to a diet rich in shellfish, yet it can still stand up to intense spices and bold preparations. Chef Daniel Angerer, in keeping with his Austrian roots, prepares a fluffy monkfish schnitzel coated with ground toasted pumpkin seeds at Klee Brasserie (200 Ninth Ave between 22nd and 23rd Sts, 212-633-8033). One if by Land, Two if by Sea (17 Barrow St between Bleecker and W 4th Sts, 212-255-8649) goes Asian with monkfish cheeks bang bang, plump meat in a tangy mix of peanut butter, chilies, olive oil and ketchup. A moist monkfish “osso buco” (named for the classic veal shank dish) is on the menu at Olana (72 Madison Ave between 27th and 28th Sts, 212-725-4900)—chicken jus and lardons add a dose of earthiness. The more adventurous should try the liver—a known delicacy—at Fiamma (206 Spring St between Sixth Ave and Sullivan St, 212-653-0100), where chef Fabio Trabocchi briefly sears it before topping it with herbed bread crumbs and dressing the plate with onion compote and polenta. At Prune (54 E 1st St between First and Second Aves, 212-677-6221), the simple broiled monkfish liver is served with toast and a sprinkle of salt, a lighter, aquatic version of a terrine de foie gras.

—Sylvie Bigar