Critics’ pick

Photograph: Roxana Marroquin

Cookie run Ever since reading about Mrs. Parr, Graham Greene’s character in The Honorary Consul who grows stout in Buenos Aires “on her daily diet of alfajores stuffed with dulce de leche,” we’ve been on the hunt for these plump-making delicacies. While an alfajor is technically any Latin American sandwich cookie, we were on the prowl specifically for the Argentine variety: a cornstarch-based biscuit that’s typically layered with dulce de leche, the caramel spread that’s as ubiquitous in South America as peanut butter is up north. Our search ended at the new certified-organic eatery Gusto Organics (519 Sixth Ave between 13th and 14th Sts, 212-242-5800). Though the powdery-soft cookies are nothing to sniff at, it’s the silken house-made dulce de leche—milk and sugar that has been stirred for hours over a low flame—that’s the star of this sweet. Have one ($2.45 each) with your morning coffee, as they do in Argentina, or with a scoop of Gusto’s own dulce de leche ice cream for an afternoon snack that Mrs. Parr would envy.

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