Critics’ pick

Photograph: Shani Bar-on

Go for yolk Cereal for dinner may seem silly, but another a.m. staple makes perfect sense when served after dark. Within the romantic, railroad-car–skinny confines of Smith’s (79 MacDougal St between Bleecker and W Houston Sts, 212-260-0100), Danny Abrams and Cindy Smith’s new haute-American bistro, Bouley vet Pablo Romero crafts this savory all-star: a steamed egg served atop creamy Anson Mills polenta, cloaked in Gorgonzola foam ($8). What could be dismissed as molecular tomfoolery is transcendent pleasure: Dip an elongated spoon into the gooey yolk, scoop up smooth grits and admire how the pungent cheese mellows when combined with the rich egg and cornmeal. It’s so plate-scrapingly addictive, you’ll crave the concoction in the morning, too.

—Joshua M. Bernstein

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