Critics’ pick

Photograph: Beth Levendis

Suck it up There’s something borderline tarty about feasting on a lollipop when you’re past the age of 20. But there’s nothing inappropriate about the amber-hued seasonal suckers at Roni-Sue’s Chocolates (Essex Street Market, 120 Essex St at Delancey St; 212-260-0421). Bonbon maven Rhonda Kave has introduced a line of spiced tea and honey lollipops that are, dare we say, wholesome. Each of the handmade sweets is a veritable mug of tea in hard-candy form. Suspended in the individually wrapped pop is a curl of orange zest, a whole clove and a piece of cinnamon stick—aromatic Cracker Jack prizes waiting to be unearthed (admittedly, they also call to mind the novelty lollies with insects trapped in sugar). Kave, who started selling the confections before Christmas, also offers a Lemon Zinger flavor made with herbal tea, lemon rind and fresh mint, and will unveil a heart-shaped Red Zinger pop in time for Valentine’s Day. The candies also make great throat lozenges, and can double as swizzle sticks for hot drinks. Finally, some classy competition for the Dum Dum.

—Alissa Dicker

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