Critics’ pick

Photograph: Jeff Gurwin

Twist and stout Any great dish usually amounts to more than the sum of its parts, but rarely have we stumbled across such an alchemical marvel as the stout float ($8) at Back Forty (190 Ave B between 11th and 12th Sts, 212-388-1990). A first taste of this wondrously complex cousin of the brown cow, dubbed a “dessert for people who don’t want dessert” by chef Shanna Pacifico, surprises the palate with an unforgettable concurrence of sweet and savory, creaminess and carbonation. Upon second slurp, this hearty muddle of malty O’Reilly’s Stout from Pennsylvania brewery Sly Fox and creamy vanilla ice cream from Il Laboratorio del Gelato reveals a toastiness that’s strongly evocative of coffee (nutmeg and a warm nuttiness are among the other unexpected flavors that emerge). Credit for the taste-bud tickling doesn’t go to the beer and gelato alone—Pacifico finishes the float with Bosc pears that have been sautéed in butter, sugar and ice wine, which curbs the bitterness of the stout by punctuating it with granular cubes of fruit. Forget port and pie—this grown-up float sates desires for both an after-dinner drink and dessert, in one bold stroke.

See previous Critics' pick