Fish-and-chips

Illustration: Atsuhiro Saisho

“A traditional British dish of deep-fried fish fillets and french fries, most often served with malt vinegar.”—The New Food Lover’s Companion, Fourth Edition

Though eating fried fish with chips is about as British as the Queen, the pairing, like the royal family itself, is actually an import. While some debate exists on its origins, the dish is believed to have arrived in London in the 19th century with Portuguese Jews. The classic variety features batter-fried, flaky white fish fillets—usually cod, haddock or plaice—and stubby deep-fried potatoes. Atlantic Chip Shop (129 Atlantic Ave between Clinton and Henry Sts, Brooklyn Heights; 718-855-7775), an Anglo haunt with good ale on tap and the Premier League on flat-screen TVs, offers New York’s most authentic version, with a choice of fish in a golden batter (don’t forget the malt vinegar). The dish, as well-traveled as the British navy, is also a staple Down Under. Bondi Road (153 Rivington St between Clinton and Suffolk Sts, 212-253-5311) on the Lower East Side delivers a solid Aussie rendition, including South Seas barramundi and thick, crunchy fries. Meanwhile, Terrance Brennan’s bistro Artisanal (2 Park Ave at 32nd St, 212-725-8585) delivers its $21 “fish and frites” swaddled not in newspaper (per lowbrow tradition), but in a cloth-napkin–lined bowl. This Francophone version features succulent hake in a light beer batter, long crispy fries and homemade tartar sauce served in a sauceboat. An even more elegant riff takes its cues from across the Pacific. “Fish and Chips Nobu Style,” at the original Nobu (105 Hudson St at Franklin St, 212-219-0500), includes ethereal cod tempura, a seasoning of green tea– and curry-infused sea salts, and Japanese sweet potato “chips” cradled in a basket woven from dried minisardines.

—Jay Cheshes