RESTAURANTS: Q&A: Gordon Ramsay

Most Americans know British chef Gordon Ramsay as the guy who screams creative obscenities—“You fucking donkey!”—at inept flunkies on the hit Fox reality show Hell’s Kitchen. Yes, he’s a bit of a bully, but he’s also one of the world’s greatest chefs. The man who has accumulated eight Michelin stars at 12 restaurants, published nine books and produced a string of successful TV shows is now faced with the most daunting challenge of his career: opening his first place in the States, specifically here in midtown.

The new spot, named Gordon Ramsay, will offer a modern European menu and is slated to open in late October or early November inside the London NYC Hotel (formerly the Rihga Royal). It’s a fine-dining destination modeled closely after his eponymous eatery in London’s Chelsea neighborhood. Mr. Congeniality shared his grand vision with us—never once referring to a donkey.

What are you doing to make sure this will be a success?

Our saving grace is that we’re not governed by 200 covers a night. I’m a control freak: We’ve got 38 seats, 12 tables and 50 seats at the bar. We are spending $6.5 million on this restaurant. And it’s the smallest restaurant we’ve had so far.

Are diners already trying to score reservations?

Each and every day. We have between 750 and a thousand calls a day for those 12 tables. It’s out of control in terms of e-mails and dates and anniversaries and requests. I’m flattered—but I’m also shitting myself.

Do VIPs get first crack?

I don’t have a back-door policy. All my customers are VIPs and I respect everyone, whether they’re spending $5 on a gin and tonic or $1,000 on Haut-Brion.

Will the menu reflect New Yorkers’ tastes?

I’m not going to decide what is an American palate, what is a British palate and what is a French palate. Remain individual—that’s crucial. I just want the menu to speak for itself. So to me, the most important thing is finding the balance. There are no heavy sauces with cream, it’s not all laced with butter. It’s very fresh, vibrant with bold flavors.

Can you give us an example?

Everything is subject to availability, but for the last two months we’ve been working on the most amazing carpaccio of octopus. It’s served with pig belly and it’s extraordinary: It comes with a cardamom spice sauce.

Did you research New York cuisine before embarking on this new venture?

I’ve eaten across the country from California to midtown, essentially studying New York for the last ten years—since the early days when Daniel Boulud left Le Cirque and opened Daniel. I can remember that far back. And Jean-Georges [Vongerichten] and David Bouley with his apples and archways and corridor. These places were extraordinary for me back then as a 21-year-old, and I’m 39 now. I’m not taking New York lightly and I’m not taking anything for granted.

Some people worry that you may not be in the kitchen once the place has opened. Is that a valid concern?

I’m here from the 25th of October to the 26th of December. Would you like the return ticket faxed to you as proof? Trust me, this is not a two-week thing—I’m taking this one seriously.

Do you read food critics? I hear that they can be brutal in London.

I read with interest [New York Times critic] Frank Bruni’s piece on Le Cirque. In the U.K., we have 70 food critics who are more interested in talking about their girlfriend’s fucking bikini wax than giving any insight into the unique stance and style and service of the restaurant. Personally, I’m fed up with being judged by individuals who know less about food than I do. What really gets on my tits is when they start to talk about ingredients that are not even in the dish. However, my biggest critics are my customers. They’re paying the bill. And there’s only one bigger critic than them, and that’s myself.—James Oliver Cury

Gordon Ramsay will open inside the London NYC Hotel (151 W 54th St between Sixth and Seventh Aves, thelondonnyc.com) in late October or early November.

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The sweet spots | Q&A: Gordon Ramsay | Awaited tables | Save the dates