Getting the boot

Denino's

Photo: Jonathon Kambouris

Arthur Avenue, The Bronx

In the Bronx’s Little Italy, slices are characterized by their hugeness. They’re cut from 22-inch pies, and a dusting of cornmeal is often used to keep dough from sticking to the -wooden pizza peels. This is true at Giovanni’s (2343 Arthur Ave near Frank Simeone Sq, 718-933-4141), where it’s best to order a fresh, whole pie instead of slices. The other key concept here: pride in the ingredients procured from local vendors. “We get all our tomatoes, cheese and vegetables from the neighborhood,” says Stan Petti, owner of Full Moon Pizza (600 E 187th St at Arthur Ave, 718-584-3451). “Why go anywhere else?”

Bensonhurst, Brooklyn

“The best pizza is the pizza you grew up with,” says Antonio Gnerre,owner of Da Vinci Pizzeria (6514 18th Ave at 65th St, 718-232-5855), in the heart of Brooklyn’s Little Italy. Around here, slices are often passed across Formica countertops with 1960s starburst patterns and eaten in bustling, wood-paneled dining rooms. As for the food, the standouts are Pizza Den (8521 18th Ave at 85th St, 718-837-2350), for a good “Grandma slice”(see the glossary on page 24); L&B Spumoni Gardens (2725 86th St at W 10th St, 718-449-1230), for light, airy squares; and Da Vinci, for tasty -plain slices and squares.

Howard Beach, Queens

The main thoroughfare, Cross Bay Boulevard, is home to five pizze-rias. New Park Pizza (156-71 Cross Bay Blvd at 157th Ave, 718-641-3082), has a brick-lined oven that gives pies their signature charred, smokytasting crust. In the Lindenwood section of Howard Beach is La Villa(8207 153rd Ave between 82nd and 83rd Sts, 718-641-8259), with a wide array of specialty pizzas.

Staten Island

Characterized by a dense population of Italian-Americans, Staten Island really is its own Little Italy. What unites the best pizzerias here is atten-tion to the crust. “We keep it plain, simple and on the money,” says Giorgio Giove of Brother’s Pizza (750 Port Richmond Ave at Willowbrook Rd, 718-442-2332). Many local pizzerias use high-gluten flour. At Denino’s (524 Port Richmond Ave at Hooker Pl, 718-442-9401), the foundation is dense yet thin and crunchy, thanks to bread crumbs on the bottom. The crust at Joe & Pat’s (1758 Victory Blvd at Manor Rd, 718-981-0887) is almost crackerlike. For a more pliant, foldable slice, try Nunzio’s (2155 Hylan Blvd at Midland Ave, 718-667-9647).
—Adam Kuban