GETTING THERE
By car: Take the Garden State Parkway South 65 miles to Exit 63. Take Rte 72 East for seven miles, continuing all the way over the causeway to Long Beach Boulevard, the main drag. Buses and trains don’t go near LBI, which is a pain but also a big reason the place remains laid-back and uncommercialized.
WHAT'S CAPE COD ABOUT IT?
This resort area, favored by families and longtime summer tenants, boasts a secluded location that keeps its picturesque, well-tended beaches calm and free of day-tripping crowds. As in the tight-knit Cape communities, many LBI veterans have spent childhood summers there and rented bungalows with friends in college before finally bringing their own broods.
WHAT'S JERSEY ABOUT IT?
The crowds in the bars are mostly from Jersey and Southeastern Pennsylvania; their hair and accents will make it instantly clear that they've never set foot in a leafy New England boarding school. The upside: They know how to party, usually with trivia games and shots. Our favorite cheeseball hangs are Buckalew’s (101 Bay Ave at Center St, Beach Haven; 609-492-1065) and Joe Pop’s (2002 Long Beach Blvd at 20th St, Surf City; 609-494-0558), where on Wednesday night you might catch the beloved shore band the Nerds, covering hits like “Sweet Caroline” and “Copacabana.”
THE BASICS
The north end is full of rich folk, and perhaps closer in atmosphere to Martha's Vineyard or Nantucket. This end of the island is also home to Barnegat Lighthouse, the third largest in the U.S. Visitors can climb 165 feet to the top and gaze out at spectacular views, then stroll the boardwalk. To the south there's a trailer park. The Goldilocks happy medium can be found between these two endpoints, near Beach Haven.
Where to eat/drink: The first beach bum up in the morning is required to fetch coffee and fresh, homemade doughnuts from Marvel’s Bakery (4 W Maryland Ave at Long Beach Blvd, Beach Haven Gardens; 609-492-2516), an island institution. The Beach Haven Fishery (2115 Long Beach Blvd at 21st St, Ship Bottom; 609-492-4388) serves excellent fresh and fried seafood to eat in or take out. The prices are high for such a casual joint, but they’re on par with the island’s other fish shacks. New Yorkers inured to dining next to a busy road can grab an outdoor picnic table. For a more upscale experience and eclectic American cuisine, try Blue (1016 Long Beach Blvd at 11th St, Surf City; 609-494-7556); just make sure to BYO.
Where to stay: Spray Beach Inn (24th St and Ocean Ave, Spray Beach; 609-492-1501). is a no-frills ‘60s-era motel on the ocean with a pool and a casual beachfront bar. Ask for a room in the Atlantic Avenue annex across the street, and get two double beds for just $200/night on weekends, $175 weekdays.
YOU HAVE TO SEE…
For real kitschy-cool Jersey fun, check out the attractions at Bay Village (800 Bay Ave at 9th St, Beach Haven; 609-492-2800), a laughably inauthentic replica of a Victorian marketplace. You’ll find the usual assortment of tourist traps, including vendors of fudge, chowder and locally branded sweatshirts, along with an unexpectedly cool women’s surf boutique called Sur La Plage (1000 Bay Ave, Beach Haven; 609-492-5757). Next door is the Fantasy Island Amusement Park (320 7th St, Beach Haven; 609-494-4000), which houses an arcade, Ferris wheel, carousel, bumper cars and many other nausea-inducing rides.
Please do not encourage New Yorkers to come to LBI. Part LBI's appeal is that it is lacking the Jersey bashing morons from Queens and SI. Please stay in Seaside and Point Pleasant and let LBI remain the laid back Jersey beach it is known for.