Oy! Food.

Kosher wines
Perennial first-course gefilte fish finds a friend in Goose Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2006, a popular New Zealand sauvignon blanc. What it lacks in complexity and finish, it makes up for with its brisk Kiwi palate of passion fruit, peach and banana. $20; McCabe’s, 1347 Third Ave at 77th St, 212-737-0790

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Fried foods
No one can deny the importance of carciofi alla giudea, the Roman Jews’ fried artichokes, in the classic Italian kitchen. At Gusto, carefully trimmed young artichokes are first slowly cooked in olive oil until tender, then drained and cooled before being flash-fried, instantly crisping the delicate outer leaves as they spread open into golden florets. (Gusto, 60 Greenwich Ave at Perry St; 212-924-8000; $12)

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Kosher steaks
Excerpt from our 2005 review of La Carne Kosher Steakhouse: "While you won't see some traditional steaks listed—porterhouse, filet mignon and sirloin are noticeably absent (it's a kosher thing)—you can order a rib eye and a prime rib. The Delmonico "Champs-Elysées," for example, is a rib eye slathered in a sauce of mushrooms, ginger, shallots and chives and served with chickpea fries (which broke apart upon being lifted)."

La Carne will be augmenting its menu with traditional latkes for 2007 Hanukkah. Read the full review here.

Pickled everything
Thanks to Rick Field, lowly cukes have become, if still not exactly sexy, a potent symbol linking the neighborhood’s past with its vibrant present. The former TV producer began pickling everything from local Kirbies to okra in 1997, incorporating such ingredients as dried cherries and hibiscus flowers into his sours. Field, who runs his business from a Chrystie Street office, breathed new life into an old-world craft, and made it possible to apply the adjective artisanal to pickles (and charge around $10 a jar).

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Kosher bistro
For those who think kosher food stops at cholent comes Clubcouse café, a casual bistro from the mensches behind upscale kosher steakhouse Le Marais. The menu features dishes such as duck empanadas, fried chicken and lamb chili cooled withan avocado relish.

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Endangered delis
Pastrami purists swear by bespoke barrel-cured beef at Ben’s Best (a stacked sandwich will set you back $8.95—not bad for certified kosher). 96-40 Queens Blvd at 63rd Rd, Rego Park, Queens (718-897-1700)

All three delis listed in this story are still going strong. View the full text here.

Kosher and vegan dining
Excerpt from our Caravan of Dreams review: "On a recent night, we dined to the world-music stylings of a live guitarist and a drummer—an appropriate choice for a menu that has no borders. Patrons can choose from a wide variety of appetizers, entrées and desserts, both cooked and “live” (made of raw fruits, nuts and seeds). We enjoyed the live hummus, an exceptionally light and fluffy spread, perfumed with pureed almonds and served with toothsome flaxseed chips and crudité."

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Syrian Jewish salad
This recipe—from Aromas of Aleppo: The Legendary Cuisine of Syrian Jews, by Poopa Dweck—combines sweetened whole-wheat grains, pomegranate seeds and mixed nuts.

Upper West Side essential
Despite decor that Jewish mothers might call “schmutzy,” the legendary Barney Greengrass is a madhouse at breakfast and brunch. Enormous egg platters come with the usual choice of smoked fish (such as sturgeon or Nova Scotia salmon). Prices are high but portions are large—and that goes for the sandwiches, too. Or try the less costly dishes: matzo-ball soup, creamy egg salad or cold pink borscht served in a glass jar.

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