Plate tectonics

Gazpacho at Café Boulud

Tomato seeds sown + 5 months

ECKERTON HILL FARM LENHARTSVILLE, PA
Between late February and early March, farmer Tim Stark sows heirloom tomato seeds in a flat seeding tray in a greenhouse. After two to three weeks, he transplants the seedlings into individual pots. In late April or early May, he transplants the seedlings into the field. Stark begins to pick tomatoes every two days in mid-July. He harvests between 15 and 20 tons in a typical season.

IN TRANSIT (2.5 hours)
The fragile tomatoes are packed in single-layer flat boxes. The boxes are stacked and trucked (by Stark himself) about 110 miles to the Union Square Greenmarket.

1 hour, 20 minutes

UNION SQUARE GREENMARKET
Café Boulud’s executive chef, Bertrand Chemel, arrives at the market between 8:30 and 9am—three times a week—for the first pick. He selects cherry, beefsteak and heirloom tomatoes for his gazpacho.

IN TRANSIT (1 day)
The chef and his staff attempt to find a cabbie who will drive them 60 blocks uptown with 15 boxes of tomatoes.

5 months, 1 day, 3.8 hours later...

THE RESTAURANT: CAFÉ BOULUD
Back at the restaurant, the staff washes the tomatoes but does not refrigerate them. Then they’re marinated overnight in herbs and extra-virgin olive oil, along with celery, cucumber, fennel, basil and cilantro. The next day, the tomatoes are ground in a meat grinder (yes, vegheads, a meat grinder). Just before serving, vinegar, lime juice, salt and pepper are added, and the dish is finished with a lemon basil-bud garnish. 20 E 76th St between Fifth and Madison Aves (212-772-2600)