Mayahuel

The Division Bell

Photograph: Roxana Marroquin

Just when you thought there weren’t many new angles left to explore by latter-day cocktailians, ex–Death & Company bartender Phil Ward has uncovered one. While most serious mixologists favor gin and whiskey, Ward focuses on relatively neglected tequila and its cousin, mescal, at his new East Village haute cantina. Ward recognized that Mexico’s trademark elixir—favored in these parts in shots or margaritas—has the complexity and range of flavor to birth a whole subset of mixed drinks. Here, his vision, shared with co-owner Ravi DeRossi, is sublimely realized in a wonderful debut menu that features agave-kissed cocktails, tea-infused inventions and a wide array of tequilas and mescals for sipping, as well as tequila-spiked sangrias, punches and beer-based drinks. The michelada, composed of beer and spicy sangrita, comes across as a South of the Border Bloody Mary. The Pilot Punch (white tequila, jalapeño, yellow Chartreuse, lime juice, cucumber and mint) offers a beguiling give-and-take between biting pepper and soothing mint. The tea infusion, meanwhile, shows up in the cool-as-marble Cinquenta Cinquenta—a subtle pairing of chamomile-infused reposado tequila and Dolin Vermouth Bianco that goes down like iced tea. Ward particularly shines when playing with toasty mescal. The Slynx cocktail is a liquid campfire of aged tequila, applejack, bitters and a smoky rinse of mescal. Just as complex, but more lighthearted, is the Division Bell, a blend of Aperol, Maraska (maraschino liqueur), mescal and lime juice that smacks of rhubarb, cherry, citrus and smoke. The craftsmanship in the drinks is equaled in the bar menu (see The Best New Bar Food) and in the handsome design, marked by cathedral windows and religious candles that recall a neighborhood botanica. Despite its many strengths, Mayahuel wears its ambitions lightly. With so many of today’s top-tier cocktail bars lousy with vanity, that unexpected humility—like the tequila focus—is a welcome departure.—TONY

Cocktail recipe: Philip Ward’s Loop Tonic

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