White Slab Palace

In a city where 19th-century saloon style has a choke hold on bar design, the spare, industrial look of White Slab Palace is an aberration. The stark, cement-floored lounge, wrapped in floor-to-ceiling windows, makes but one concession to voguish barroom decor: taxidermy, in the form of a single black bear. And while latter-day cocktail wizardry tends to hinge on liquors like gin and whiskey, at the Slab the spirit of choice is near-flavorless aquavit—a nod to the bar’s Scandinavian bent, shared with recently shuttered sister spot Good World Bar & Grill. The hooch, stored in a pair of freezers glowing seductively in a corner, works its way into some cocktails, like the Berzerker (Aalborg Jubilaeum aquavit, ginger ale and cucumber garnish), a sensory challenge that tastes strongly of caraway seeds, cucumber and dill, and pairs perfectly with the Slab’s wonderful herring appetizer. We’d love to say that the whimsical anchovy-garnished vodka-and-Sambuca-based Moby Dick also won us over, but those fish are salty devils, and after two minutes we might as well have been drinking seawater. The flavor made us wish we’d followed the lead of the hipster crowd (and there is a crowd), which seems to favor the well-curated beer selection—46 foreign and domestic microbrews ($4–$15) including the Belgian Gouden Carolus Triple on tap. Also in need of improvement: the service. Oyster shooters bathed in shots of aquavit, bourbon or vodka sounded tantalizing, but weren’t available one night; on another visit, we couldn’t order three different advertised cocktails due to missing ingredients. Hiccups aside, there’s an enticing idea in the making here—and you won’t even need a vest and tie to enjoy it.—TONY

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